For a start you actually don’t need many supplies:
- A basic toolbox, with wrenches, screwdrivers, sockets, etc.
- Some rebuild parts for the specific motorcycle model you got are easy to find online, most likely, these will be gaskets, seals, etc.
- Basic motorcycle maintenance fluids: engine oil, brake fluid, bike cleaner, etc.
Step 1: Get the motorcycle
If you don’t have relatives or friends with old motorcycles waiting for salvation, there are many places to find such bikes for low prices, such as the motorcycle marketplace CryptoMoto.
An old, not restored motorcycle that has been sitting for years usually retails for very cheap, and you do not take much risk getting one.
Just pay attention to the following:
- Look for a bike that is mostly complete; one with missing parts, particularly engine components, can cost you more in the long run when hunting down hard-to-find replacements.
- Avoid bikes retired due to a major accident. You can easily check for this by examining the key chassis parts (wheels, fork, frame, etc.) to ensure they’re straight and undamaged.
- A bike with a title is often a safer bet, but depending on your country, you might be able to get the title for a classic motorcycle fairly easily with a purchase receipt.
- Choose a bike with an engine that isn’t seized. This is crucial if you want to save yourself the headache of fixing a locked engine. To check if the engine is seized, use the kickstarter on older bikes, ensuring it moves freely. If there’s no kickstarter, put the bike in gear and try pushing it — there should be some resistance, but the engine should turn over, and you should feel the pistons moving. If the bike doesn’t budge, and the rear wheel slides, that’s a bad sign.
- Ultimately, pick a bike that suits your style, whether you want to keep it original or turn it into a café racer. Bikes from the 70s, like classic Hondas or Yamahas, often have points-style ignition systems that are easier to rebuild.
Once you’ve got the bike, give it a thorough wash to clear away years of dirt and assess its overall condition. You can also find service manuals for nearly any motorcycle model, including those from the 70s. Sometimes, you can get these for free online, or buy one for around $30. A service manual will be your best friend during the restoration.
Step 2: Restart the engine
Now comes the biggest step: getting the motorcycle’s engine running again!
When restarting an engine that’s been idle for years, it’s important to perform basic maintenance first, rather than rushing to start it. Fix what needs fixing to avoid causing damage.
What does an engine need to run? It needs fuel, a proper air-fuel mix, sparks, and good lubrication. Before starting the engine, follow these four steps:
- First, ensure you have a good, fully charged battery. You’ll likely need to replace the old one.
- Rebuild the carburetor and replace the air filter. Old fuel can gum up the carburetor, blocking small jets and holes, and seals may have dried out or cracked. Rebuilding a carburetor isn’t too difficult, and service manuals for even ’70s bikes include step-by-step instructions.
- Inspect and possibly repair the ignition system, especially ensuring that static timing is set correctly (this refers to the timing of the spark for each cylinder). Older bikes typically have points-style ignition, and points can corrode over time. Replacing points and condensers is inexpensive and straightforward. Check the coils, spark plugs, and spark plug wires while you’re at it.
- Drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, and fill the engine with fresh oil. Never attempt to start the engine with oil that’s been sitting for years. You can also inspect the pistons and cylinder walls through the spark plug hole using a flashlight or endoscope. Then, do a compression test. Performing two oil changes in a row is an excellent way to flush out the engine and crankcase.
Additionally, inspect the fuel tank and fuel lines. Old fuel often leaves rust in the tank, so treat it with rust remover and an epoxy-based sealant. For the initial startup, use an auxiliary fuel line instead of the main fuel tank.
Step 3: Restore the suspension & wheels
Getting an old bike’s engine running is one thing, but making it ride smoothly is another!
If you plan to ride an old motorcycle, you’ll likely need to check and replace key components like the wheels, suspension, and brakes.
Wheels and Tires
If the bike hasn’t been used for years, there’s a 90% chance the tires will need replacing. Tire rubber degrades over time, becoming harder and prone to cracking, which can make them dangerous. Tires older than 6-7 years, even in good condition, should not be used.
You can check the tire’s age by looking for a four-digit number in an oval on the tire’s sidewall. The first two digits indicate the week, and the last two indicate the year. For example, “3311” means the tire was made in the 33rd week of 2011. If the number is only three digits, the tire is from before the 2000s and must be replaced.
Depending on the bike, you’ll either have tubeless or tube-type tires. If you have tube-type tires, get new tubes as well.
Also, check the wheels for bends or cracks and make sure they’re true. To check wheel trueness, lift the bike and spin the wheels, observing if they roll straight. If your wheels are spoked, you may be able to adjust them. If they’re cast wheels, you might need replacements.
Suspension: Fork and Rear Shock
For the fork, start by changing the fork oil. Your bike’s service manual will list the recommended oil type and quantity. Each bike is different, but most forks have a drain plug at the bottom and a filling cap at the top. Open both, drain the old oil, and pump the fork to expel any remaining oil, then refill it with fresh oil.
Check the fork seals as well. There shouldn’t be any oil above the fork seals. If you find oil, the seals are leaking and need replacing.
To inspect the rear shock, visually check for oil leaks or damage, and test the suspension by pressing down on the rear of the bike.
Step 4: Restore the brakes
Making the bike move is one thing — making it stop safely is another!
The brake system is the most critical component to inspect on an old bike. Older bikes without ABS typically have either drum or hydraulic disc brakes, which are easier to repair than modern systems.
Drum Brakes
It is very easy to check if drum brakes are working properly: just try them while pushing the bike, most of the time, you’ll only need to adjust the rod to increase or decrease braking power while stepping on the brake pedal or pulling the brake lever.
However, even if the bike seems to brake well, always remove the wheel and the drum brake from it, to check the brake shoes. Check if there is still enough braking material and if the brake shoes and drum are clean. It is always a good idea to wipe everything clean with some brake cleaner.
Disc Brakes
First of all, replace the brake pads, they are very cheap.
Then you need to change the brake fluid. It has to be changed every 3 years, or it’ll lose its properties. So bleeding the brake with new brake fluid has to be on your to-do list anyway.
But before doing so, check all the brake lines, master cylinder, and caliper for leaks and cracks. Most of the old bikes have rubber brake lines that will most likely be cracked. It’s a great idea to replace the brake line with brand-new stainless steel braided brake lines before bleeding the braking system.
You also need to check if the piston is moving freely on the calipers. This can be done by removing the pads, and then trying to push back the piston inside the caliper.
If you need to change your master cylinder, ALWAYS go for some famous brand (Nissin, Brembo, etc.) and always avoid cheap Chinese master cylinders. A cheap master cylinder tends to leak and fail under pressure. Master cylinder is a vital component of the braking system and you don’t want them to fail when riding at 100 kph!
Step 5: Restore the clutch & transmission
This step may not be necessary for every bike, but if something’s wrong, you’ll notice it quickly.
Check if the clutch and drivetrain are working correctly. For bikes with chain drives, inspect the chain for rust or stiff links. Sprockets should have rounded, not sharp, teeth. If the sprockets are worn, replace both the chain and sprockets.
To test the clutch, take the bike for a ride. You’ll soon notice if it’s slipping or not engaging properly.
Step 6: Restore the electrical system
Depending on the condition of the motorcycle, electrical repairs may be required.
This step covers the bike’s lights, turn signals, horn, and dashboard indicators. Restoring the electrical system isn’t difficult, but it can be time-consuming if there are issues like faulty wiring. Check that all components work properly, and make sure you aren’t blowing any fuses, which could indicate a short circuit.
Often, you’ll just need to replace light bulbs or repair a broken signal.
Step 7: Make it look great again (cosmetics)
You’ve got your vintage bike running and riding smoothly! Now it’s time to make it look great.
There are countless ways to customize its appearance, whether you want to restore it to its original condition or give it a new look, like a café racer or scrambler. The choice is yours!
Step 8: Enjoy your new (old) bike!
Your motorcycle is fully restored and ready for the road. Riding vintage bikes is exhilarating — they have character, and you can feel the power as you ride. It’s up to you to master their unique quirks!
Remember to ride safely: always wear full protective gear (helmet, gloves, long-sleeve jacket & jeans, etc.) even when it is hot out there, and most importantly, always ride within your abilities.
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